Stashbusting Girl's Raglan Shirt

This summer my sewing & crafting output has taken a nosedive.  With so many personal and business demands on my time, making things for fun just hasn't been possible and, truthfully, my crafty mojo has kinda been on empty too.  Thankfully necessity stepped in and a bit of sewing finally happened!  It started with this girl's raglan top for my daughter's birthday this week.

Budget, time and uncertainty of how well store bought stuff would fit were all factors in making this top.  She's had a big growth spurt this summer & we're entering the challenging-to-please (and fit) tween zone.  Like shopping wasn't hard enough with 5 kids & Covid insanity?!?  I decided to just try to make something with what I had here.  Luckily I remembered how much she loves the wearing hand-me-down raglans I'd made for her brothers with McCalls 7379, so I knew the style & sizing would work for her.

I also lucked out with sifting through my fabric bins and re-discovered several beautiful knit prints that I'd been hoarding.  This pegasus mom & baby fabric by Znok seemed just perfect.  It's still sweet for my mommy's girl at heart, but it's a nice larger scale for older girls & the colors aren't babyish:

I only had a yard, so I needed to search my stash for a good color match for the sleeves and neckband.  I found a boucle fleece remnant left from making this dolman top for myself several years ago.  It looks a bit purple-y outdoors but it's actually more of a wine color.  

Side note: the pattern is by Seamingly Smitten.  I'm glad to not be pregnant again this fall so I can finally wear it
- I forgot how much l liked it until I saw this photo!

The color match was ideal and it was medium weight so it wasn't too heavy to pair with the lycra knit:

The only downside was the amount of stretch was a bit lacking for the neckband.  I usually use rib knit, which is ideal to fit the neck hole, but this fabric wasn't as cooperative so I had to cut a 1 inch extra piece to sew in to enlarge the band enough to fit.  It's a chunky textured fabric so you can't see the additional seams at the back and it should hide the neckband not laying as flat when it's worn.

  

I'm excited to give this and hope she like it.  Until 2 1/2 yrs ago she was my youngest, and the only girl and really liked being both those things.  Now with 2 more little ones, she's smack in the middle and entering that awkward, wanting to be like the older kids, but still wanting to be small sometimes phase.  Maybe a cozy shirt that reminds her she's still my special girl will help with this transitional time and make this age a more fun one for her ❤️    

Summer Sewing Starts Now! FREE Shorts Pattern Find

Summer is nearly here and it's so good to be sewing for it!  A couple of weeks ago I shared my latest fabric buy - some cool Solar Color Changing Jersey knit.  I had to put working with it on pause while tending to a sick baby, but now that things are back to normal on the home front, I got a chance to get rolling on some projects.    

The real question was what to make??  I wanted to do some shorts for my daughter with this color changing flowers print that turns from this black & white design....

To this colorful print in the sunshine:

I poured through my pattern collection to see what I could find. I had used this free Ginger Shorties pattern by Sew Like My Mom for the first time a few years ago, back when my daughter was 6.  It covered sizes 12 months-8yrs and was free so it was a great find.

It was such a great and quick sew I made several pairs as the bottoms of some shortie pajamas too, which she really loved.

I wanted to use it again, but with my daughter being nearly 10 I was afraid the largest size would be too small and I'd have to scale it up myself.  So imagine my delight when I saw that Sew Like My Mom upgraded it to go through size 16!!  And it's still FREE!  You can get it HERE.

It was just as easy to make as before.  It's literally just 3 pieces to cut (two legs and a waistband) and three seams to sew.  SO quick to put together.  By using a nice rib knit I didn't even need to add any elastic to the waistband.  

Of course the sun refused to cooperate when I was taking photos and hid behind a cloud while she was wearing them, but a little later I was able to get an in-the-sun photo for the full color change magic effect:

I also made another pair with some stretchy stripe terry knit I had in my stash (yay stash-busting!!).  

Sew Like My Mom has several other free shorts patterns there and some cute patterns you can purchase too.  I'm definitely going to make some more and since the sizing covers so many ages, I can make stuff for my 1 yr old up to my 13 yr old.  With fabrics from my stash + the free patterns clothing 3 out of 4 kids for free is a win for sure! 

Figuring Out Custom Fabric Groups & How To Shop Them

As a bit of a wrap up to my summer series Sewing with Knits, I thought I'd share a bit about a fabric source that is somewhat mysterious and not all that well know. In fact, it's a fabric buying option many aren't even aware of: Custom Fabric Groups.

What are Custom Fabric Groups?  For those that aren't familiar, these are similar to co-ops.  It's essentially pre-ordering fabric that is run in small custom batches. The fabric is usually only available from that particular group and not something you'll be able to search for in other shops.  The Poo Happens pajamas I made last year with this panel and matching yardage were a custom group buy:

These groups can be a great source for beautiful high quality fabrics, but figuring them out takes a bit more than just adding something you like to your cart and buying it, so like this custom run hypercolor knit, I'm revealing more details here:   

Color Change Jersey Knit from Sash Fabrics 

How do they work? Most use a private group on Facebook to operate. You join the group and read through their terms (often pinned at the top of the page) and agree to abide by their rules.  Others are available through a retail shop in a special pre-order section.   

Advantages of Custom Fabric Groups:

- Unique prints and fabrics.  If you love knit fabric, these groups offer designs and colors you won't see in normal shops.

- Hard to find imports.  Some groups special in Euro or Japanese fabric brands that are nearly impossible to find in the US/Canada or are too expensive to ship overseas as an individual.

- Specialty fabrics like double gauze, PUL, soft-shell, milky and rib knit are offered in many too.

- Consistent quality.  Most use the same printer or manufacturer for their orders so the quality and weight of the fabric, as well as the printing, tends to be very reliable. 

- Customer input.  Some take suggestions of designs, themes and color ways or are willing to re-run previous prints that have proven popular.    

- Getting ahead of the season.  Pre-ordering means prints for specific times of year or holidays are open months in advance so you can plan what you're going to make sooner.

- Strikeoff imagery.  Personally I find this a major factor when buying fabric.  Actual photos of the strikeoffs.  Instead of just a digital image, many owners show these samples from the printer (run to make sure color, scale & clarity are good before printing an entire roll of a fabric).  They'll also show the fabrics sewn up by their staff or fellow customers who've volunteered so you can see what it'll look like as a finished item.  

High quality soft-shell fabrics from Frollein S. 

Disadvantages of Custom Fabric Groups:  Some of this is purely my own opinion, but they are factors to keep in mind.

- Higher price point.  Custom costs more.  Supply & demand and all that.  I've seen some groups charge over $30/yd for knits, with most over $20/yd.     

- Prepaying.  To pre-order, you usually have to pay in advance or at least a deposit.  Some, however, do offer layaway options if you order a certain amount.

- Wait time.  It ain't Amazon Prime fast.  Expect it to take many weeks before a pre-order closes, gets printed, ships to the seller and then is shipping out to you.  Most groups tell what the approximate lead time is, but it varies.  I've seen some be just 4 weeks, others as much as 12.  Pre-orders are not good when your sewing is extra time sensitive because delays can happen.  

- Frenzy mentality.  Kind of like the Lularoe method of doing business, which to me is a horrible & annoying way to shop.  Some groups are really haphazard on when they open up preorder rounds.  It can be easy to miss a short window to sign up or keep up when they have many different rounds overlapping.  Some also have a limited amount of yardage allotted so unless you're stalking the page and signing up asap, you can miss the chance to order.  A few were too much effort for me to constantly keep tabs on, so I left them.  Buying fabric should be fun, not work!

Let's Eat Doughnuts & Poo Happens from now closed Bebe Flow Fabrics Group

Beware of Scams - unfortunately there are some custom fabric groups that are shady.  Sometimes it's because the person running it lacks any business sense or because they don't have enough money to actually pay for the fabrics they're having printed and in over their heads.  Or they let their personal dramas impact their commitments to customers.  Sometimes it's just someone trying to swindle.    

One group I'd bought fabric from one time changed owners.  The new owner wasn't responding when fabrics didn't arrive when promised and then had excuse after excuse of why things were (held up at customs, printer problems, orders stolen off her porch, etc.). People demanded refunds and it was messy.  I was grateful I hadn't ordered anything new and left the group.  

Some shady types have even closed up, only to open under a new name.  On the plus side, there are some Facebook groups, like Fabric Scams & Information Group where people review these groups.  If you're not sure what the track record or reputation is (or you've had a problem and want others to know to avoid it), a quick look there could give you a solid answer.

Pixie Garden from MK Designs Group

A Word on Licensed Designs: This is an area that appears very grey in Custom Fabric Groups.  A lot of groups run their own prints using licensed characters from popular tv shows & movies.  Disney stuff shows up A LOT.  Many believe since they are redrawing it themselves or tweaking it somewhat that it falls under "inspired by" and is not copyright infringement.  Sometimes that's true.  Others copy characters exactly.  Some even blatantly copy exclusive designs created by other custom fabric groups!  

I try avoid buying those - a few years back I assumed designs like that were licensed or authorized, but it's clear they are not.  Many buyers just don't care because they want prints with their favorite characters.  You have to decide where your comfort level is with buying those.  And making anything with them that you sell can transfer the risk to you.  Personally, I feel like there are enough other prints available that are beautiful and haven't stolen designs from somewhere else.  

Best of Both Worlds Option: Online retail shops that offer pre-order options.  These fabrics are from one - Sahara Fabrics (2020 update: unfortunately this shop closed at the beginning of the year, but when shopping small fabric shop websites that sell knits just look for a pre-order section)

Narwhal Magic and Blue Squishies from Sahara Fabrics Group

- Usually these shops have a retail FB page and a private FB group where all the pre-order news goes first.

- Fabrics are offered at a special pre-order price, but whatever is left then goes in the retail shop.  So if you're eyeing a print, but can't get it right now, there's still a possible chance to buy some down the road.

- Reputable.  You're ordering through a business storefront, not just signing up via a Google doc some random lady has on Facebook.  

Last Thoughts:

- Each group is a little different so it's important to read through the terms before you order anything and not be afraid to ask questions.

- Using PayPal to make payments is key since it offers buyer protection to get money back in the event something doesn't work out.

- Custom fabric can be awesome, but also very addicting.  It's hard enough for many of us not to buy pretty fabric as soon as we see it, but groups add a level of urgency and impulse buying, so stick to a budget and be ok with walking away from an amazing print if it's not a good time personally.  There will ALWAYS be more pretties!

- And if a group is offering too-good-to-be-true prices, use common sense and run for the hills.

If you've got any tips or suggestions about Custom Fabric Groups, share 'em below!

How to Shop For the Best Cotton Knit Fabrics

Buying knit fabric can be a tricky endeavor.  Many stores treat it like an outcast and usually have a pitifully small selection.  Buying it online can be a roll of the dice since you can't actually feel and see the fabric.  Throw in the myriad of  types, weights and stretch percentages and it can be a challenge to find the right thing.  Today, as part of my Sewing with Knits Series, I'm sharing some of my tips & experiences to make it easier to find what you really want.

I honestly wish someone had given me guidance on fabric buying years ago so I'd not wasted a lot of time & money on the wrong stuff.  I've seen a lot of posts sharing specific favorite shops for knits, but not actually sharing how to shop.  

The good news is there's a LOT of choice these days.  When I first started sewing 9 years ago, cotton knit fabric was kind of tough to come by, but now there are many more brands and places to find knit fabric. 

What To Look For in Knits: My last Sewing With Knits post, Know Your Knits Fabric Guide, gave all the info on the different types of knits, their uses, weights and how to determine stretch.  Use this info when shopping to make sure that print you just love is actually going to work for your project.  Knowing what to look for is the first step!

Price Advice: When it comes to knits, do NOT let low price be the key factor in the selection.  I'm usually a bargain hunter/cheapskate when it comes to fabric, but this can steer you wrong with knits.  Yes, sometimes you can score an insane deal, but the reality is good quality knit fabric usually comes at a higher price point.  It will sew smoother, hold up better when washed and stretch nicely so whatever you make will hold up better over time. It's ok to be a knit lover, but make sure the ones you love are worth it!  

And don't be afraid to not buy too.  With my kids getter bigger, sometimes it's just not economical to buy a couple yards of a themed print knit at $18-25/yd to make them a shirt or pajamas when I can buy something very similar, readymade, for under $15 on sale. Save that money for a really special project or a knit that is truly unique instead.

Where to Shop

Shop By Maker - If you know you like a specific knit fabric manufacturer, use their list of retailers/stockists to easily find where to buy them in-store & on-line.  These makers have consistency in their quality which makes buying new prints a lot easier.  Art Gallery, Birch Organic, Bolt, Dear Stella, Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Robert Kaufman, Timeless Treasures are just a few.  

Some Dear Stella & Timeless Treasures City Knits

Word to the Wise on Brands - Be sure to check what type of knit and the standard width a brand offers first.   Birch Organic knits, for example, are 2 way stretch, interlock and only 42in wide, while others like Riley Blake and Dear Stella are 4 way stretch cotton spandex and 58/59in wide.  That's a big difference!

Width difference: Birch Organics vs Dear Stella

Brick & Mortar Shopping

Local Independent Fabric Shops - these are rare places for most of us, but it's worth checking to see if there are any nearby, what they carry, or if they are listed as a retailer on a favorite brand site.  Being able to see and touch knits in person, before buying, is always a plus, so support local!

Chain Fabric & Craft Stores  - Jo-Ann Stores, Hobby Lobby, etc.  These usually have a variety of knit fabrics, but the selection is typically small (at least compared to aisles of cottons & fleece).  The quality is also all over the map.  When I was new to sewing I always bought my knits this way.  "They're so cheap and right there to start sewing asap...it's good, right?"  Big mistake.  Sometimes the quality is good, but mostly they're either ultra thin and slinky (aka nightmare to sew) or, if the thickness is better, tend to pill up after a handful of washes and easily stretched out of shape.  This sweatshirt fleece was great to sew with...

but after a few washes it pilled up a lot:

These interlock prints were super cute and total impulse in-store buys). Yet, I know from past experience they won't really last as clothing for more than a dozen wearings.  Not ideal since I'd planned to use them for pajamas that would be worn regularly.

Online Shopping

Big Fabric Sites - The ones with thousands of fabrics.  Fabric.com, FabricExchange, Mood Fabrics, HartsFabric, etc.  I used to buy my knits this way too, but don't any longer.  The quality can be random and the descriptions aren't very accurate, especially if no fabric brand name is given.  Unless you are already familiar with the named fabric maker they carry and know it's good, it can be gamble on quality.  Some  have sales, so if you're willing to take a chance, or know what brand you love, these might work for you.

Small Shops - These tend to have more consistency in brands and quality.  There are tons out there, Fabric Worm, Hawthorne Threads, Nature's Fabrics, Girl Charlee, Jumping June Textiles, Frollein S (also called EU Textiles), just to name a few.  Searching for a particular brand or print usually brings up many of these shops you might not know by name.  Sales can occur every so often too, so signing up for their newsletter or following them on social media can clue you in to sales or discount codes.  They usually give the actual weight in GSM or ounces and content of the fabric, which is key.  I bought these from a shop that's unfortunately closed since, but since all the key info was in the description, they were exactly what I expected: 



FYI - just saying it's medium weight can be a seller's interpretation so don't be afraid to ask if it's not clear.  I loved this mushroom house french terry print, assuming it would be like others I'd bought, but was disappointed that it had next to no stretch when it arrived and a heavy printed ink feel.   The thermal deer print gave no weight or stretch % and ended up being unexpectedly thin. That wasn't ideal for the winter top I had planned.  In hindsight, I should have checked those things before buying.

Pre-Order/Custom Groups - these are a new source for getting really nice knits.  Typically these fabrics are offered on small shop sites and in private Facebook groups.  I'm dedicating an upcoming post to talking in detail about finding and shopping these since they are growing in popularity, but have a bit of a learning curve to use.    

Some offer hard-to-get imports like Euro knits, while others are custom run prints not available elsewhere.  Print-to-order sites like Spoonflower fall in this category too.  Usually the fabric is high quality, but the downside is wait time involved and limited window of availability.  These adorable doughnut & poo happens prints were some custom prints I scored this way last year:



The prices can be high if it's very limited, but sometimes there's a lower price if you pre-order and they later offer it retail, like these prints from Sahara Fabrics, which had a FB group and retail site (unfortunately, as of 2020 this shop closed):



There's a difference between buying fabric you'll love to sew and will last for ages versus ending up with fabric that's just "not quite right" and will either cause maximum frustration or a wonky finished project.  Hopefully this little guide will help you find those knits you were meant to love!

And if you have any advice or recommended sources, feel free to add it in the comments!



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Know Your Knits: A Basic Fabric Guide

Sewing with knit fabric is super popular these days.  I fell in love with sewing knits years ago, so it's nice to see them getting more mainstream love now.  As I've mentioned on many occasions, it's even easy to do on a basic sewing machine (my best tips for that HERE). Online & brick and mortar shops offer much more selection than ever before, but so much choice offers a new challenge.  

What about selecting knit fabrics?  How do you know what you need?  Just picking something cute or the right color isn't all it takes - you need to know if the type of fabric is suited to what you're sewing.  Sometimes it's confusing, but if you know what to look for, you'll pick the perfect fabric to fit your project.  Just use my Know Your Knits: Basic Fabric Guide below.  It's part of my summer Sewing With Knits Series to take the mystery out of working with knit fabrics.

Hands up if you've ever bought fabric purely because you loved the print or color and then been surprised because...

- It had way less stretch than expected
- It ended up being thinner/more see through than it looked online
- It wasn't well suited to the project and didn't shape well

I've experienced 'em all.  Buying fabric online is a tricky thing since you can't actually feel, stretch and see the fabric.  Buying knits is even more challenging because there are many variations.  It's important to know these three key things to pick the best knit fabric:

- Type of Fabric

- Fabric Weight

- Stretch Direction & Percentage  

Here's my basic guide to take the guesswork out for great results.

Types of Knit Fabric

Jersey - this is a lightweight knit.  Usually available in cotton, polyester or bamboo (aka rayon).  The synthetic versions tends to have a more fluid, slightly slinky feel.  Typically jersey has a two-way stretch if it's 100% cotton, but any type that has some spandex in it can be four-way stretch.  

Free Pattern Find: Blank T-Shirt Pattern HERE

Best uses: Tops, dresses, baby & kid's clothes, scarves and, if four-way stretch, leggings & headbands.

Simplicity 3640 Tank Top HERE

Interlock - this is a medium weight cotton knit.  Typically a two way-stretch.

Ringer Tee from Raglan Top HERE

Best uses: baby clothes, loungewear, pajamas, kid's underwear, looser tops.

Lettuce edge Provincial Top HERE

Cotton Lycra/Cotton Spandex - this is a medium weight knit.  Usually offers a 4 way stretch.

Best uses: LOADS!  By far, the most versatile of knits.  Stretchy tops, dresses, leggings, headbands, soft toys, baby & kid's clothing of all kinds.  Maximum use options.

Free Pattern Find: Girl's Leggings HERE

Is there anything it can't do?  Don't think so!

My Comfy, Casual Top Tutorial HERE

Rib knit - this can vary from lightweight up to heavy.  It's ribbed texture gives it a particular direction (ribs run parallel to the selvage) and typically offers a lot of stretch.  It's knitted in a tube shape and is often sold as tubular yardage with no selvage ends.

Make Your Own Knit Nightgown Tutorial HERE

Best uses - as banding and cuffs for sleeves and ankles.  Also works well to bind blankets and on its own for leggings and tops.

My Banana Dress Pattern Hack HERE

Sweatshirt Knit - this is a medium to heavy weight knit with a fleece-y wrong side.  Usually available in cotton, cotton/polyester blend.  Stretch can vary so knowing if it's two way or four way is important.

Dolman Sweater Pattern HERE

Best uses - loungewear, blankets, loose tops, elastic waist pants.

Quilted sweatshirt top HERE

French Terry - this is a medium to heavy weight knit with a looped wrong side.

Best uses - loungewear, blankets, loose tops, elastic waisted pants.

Sweater Knit - yarn knitted heavy weight fabric, often with a bonded fleece-y wrong side. Two way stretch.

Best uses - hats, scarves, mittens, one layer throws or blankets.  Good for tops & dresses:

My version of Cynthia Rowley Simplicity 2054 HERE

Ideal for cozy cardigans too:

My version of McCalls 6996 HERE

Velour - knitted with a velvety right side.  Medium weight.  Thick soft pile with a bit of sheen to it.  Has a definite direction for the pile (aka nap).  Can be either two-way or four-way stretch.

My Merida Brave costume tutorial HERE

Best uses - baby & kid's clothes, blankets, leggings, tops, soft toys.

Minky/Cuddle  - Medium to heavy weight with a plush hand.  Has a definite direction for the pile.  Is usually two-way stretch.

My Faux Quilt Binding Tutorial HERE

Best uses - blankets, pullover tops, cardigans, hats, elastic waisted pants, soft toys.

Also works for soft furnishings like my Choose Your Flair Custom Chair tutorial:

and my Cuddle Turtle Footstool Tutorial:

Thermal - waffle texture knit fabric (think old school long johns).  Can range from light to medium weight.

Best uses - Tops, baby blankets, loungewear, underwear.

My DIY underwear tutorial HERE

Spandex/Swimsuit - synthetic medium weight knit with a sheen (slight shine).  Mainly a four-way stretch.

Best uses - sportswear, dance wear, swimwear, leggings

My DIY Rash Guard/Sunsuit HERE

Worth The Weight:

Fabric weight is also really important.  There's nothing worse than ordering a fun knit print to make a top and then realizing it's totally see through or papery thin despite it's seasonal colors or print.  Or on the opposite end, it's so heavy there's no way it'll work for that formfitting headband or legging pattern.   

What's GSM? While some descriptions give weight in ounces, often you'll see a number and the letters GSM for fabric weight.  It means grams per square meter.  Since a lot of knits come from outside the US (like Asia & Europe), this is pretty common.  It's easy to convert:

GSM/33.906 = Weight in Ounces 

Ounces x 33.906 = GSM 

Knowing the weight in ounces or GSM is MUCH more helpful when selecting knits than a shop's personal interpretation of light/medium/heavyweight.  One shop's "medium weight" can be another's "light weight" and be the exact same fabric.  

Light weight: 1-150GSM or 1-4.5oz*
Medium weight: 150-350GSM or 4.5-11oz
Heavy weight: 350+GSM or 11oz+

*If a fabric falls in the light weight category, be prepared that it will probably have some transparency if it's light in color.  

Figuring Out Stretch:

Stretch Direction: Most patterns using knit fabrics will tell you the minimum amount of stretch required.  Knit fabric descriptions should always provide the percent of stretch and if it is two-way or four-way stretch.  

Two-way stretch means it will stretch out from selvage to selvage (lengthwise) only.  Four-way stretch means it will stretch both lengthwise and crosswise.  Four way tends to give more usage options and, if the print is non-directional, means you can lay the pattern pieces sideways if needed, which can be a real plus.

Stretch Percentage: this means the width of your fabric when stretched to its maximum.

For example, if you measure a 6 inch piece:

and it stretches to 9 inches, you divide by the width of your fabric when un-stretched (minus 1). So 9 divided by 6 is 1.5, then subtract 1.  This equals .5 which is 50%.  The stretch percentage is 50%.  

The higher the percentage, the stretchier the fabric and the more comfortable and the more "recovery" it has, which means how well it will snap back in shape after stretched out.  A fabric with 20% stretch might be ok for a loose top, but not work well for skintight leggings.  Use a fabric with less stretch and not only will it not fit, but it will also look stretched out and saggy after wearing.  Not a good look.  If a listing doesn't give the % of stretch, contact the shop before buying to find out.  It's not worth guessing on!    

There are tons of patterns and how-to's for countless knit fabric clothing so there's no better time to start sewing them yourself.  I've even got my tried and true tips for Sewing Knits on a Sewing Machine too: 

I'm not a fabric expert, but as you can see from the ton of knit sewing photos above, I've had a good amount of trial & error experience with knits of all sorts.  I'm glad to share what I've learned if it'll save someone else some frustration!