Ultimate Summer Maxi Dress: McCalls 7405

In the 90+ degree heat this week, I've found the perfect maxi dress pattern to keep cool in: McCalls M7405 from their Learn to Sew For Fun series.  For the record, I'm always skeptical about Big 4 patterns that promise to be easy.  Either they aren't at all or it means they'll just look unflattering and be a waste of time.  This one totally surprised me by being exactly what it said!  It was totally fun to do too.  

The pattern has options for an above-the-knee length, curved mid-length hem and full maxi. Side slits and elasticized waist are other options.  Recommended fabrics are Challis, Cotton Knit, Crepe and Gauze.  Basically, fabrics with a soft drape and a bit of give.  I went with cotton knit.  I'd advise checking the length against your height before you buy the fabric.  Since I'm pretty short at 5', I only needed 2 1/4yds instead of the suggested 3 1/2yds (that's a BIG cost difference!).   

I've also got a handy introduction to my very best tips & techniques for sewing with knits HERE:

To put my own spin on the dress, I did a color blocked hem.  I used the new Dear Stella Scallop Dot knit fabric in Fossil for the main dress and the same Scallop Dot in Guava for the hem and neck drawstring for a pop of color and to coordinate with the maxi dress I designed for my daughter that used the same DS Guava knit for the shoulder ties and hem (and their coordinating Flamingoes knit in Bay blue).

Her dress was done with my new Any Size Maxi Dress tutorial: 

The Easy Any Size Maxi Dress design would totally work in an adult size too, but I'd bought this McCalls pattern at the end of last summer for just 99 cents, so I figured I should actually try it at least once.  I'm glad I did!

The drawstring neck ties in the back so it doesn't look too twee and has a stylish partial slit there to make it easier to get on.

I will say that it is necessary to either do the elasticized waist variation, make a removable waist tie like I did or wear a belt.  Otherwise this dress will look too blowy for most figures.  On the plus side, that aspect could make it a good maternity dress option.

The directions are simple, so this really is a quick sew.  I made some shortcuts to make it even easier.  When sewing knits and dealing with patterns that have fold under areas like this does in the arm area and hem, my go-to for making it frustration-free is paper backed fusible tape.  I used some 1/4 inch wide for the bodice area and 1/2 inch for the bottom hem.  

This made it very easy to double fold the thin underarm areas and also made quick work of the neck casing.  It guarantees everything stays put and is folded perfectly evenly.

I also recommend taking up the side seam under the arms a few inches (unless you have a very long torso).  My bra easily showed on the sides until I took it up 3 inches above the pattern.

The dress is SO comfortable and easy to style up just by adding a few accessories.  I also love how we've got a Mommy & Me outfit vibe going, but it's coordinated, not cutesy, since they're not exactly the same.  

For a chance to win TWO yards of each of these fun Dear Stella knit fabrics to make your own maxi dress, visit my giveaway HERE.

I was not financially compensated for this post.  I received fabric, to use as I wished, from Dear Stella.   The opinions are completely my own based on my experiences.

Fave Raglan Shirt Patterns + Spooky Cats for Halloween & Beyond!

Halloween season is usually one of my craftiest times of the year, but there barely seems time to get it all up here on the blog before the big day has passed!  I'd planned to show lots of fun photos for today, but the weather had other ideas, so I've got to settle for the few snaps I took beforehand.

With my kids getting older it's sometimes harder to do holiday sewing.  A lot of prints are too babyish or are so gender specific that I can't use it for both my sons and daughter.  And realistically, I can't see spending loads on fabric that will be in-season for about a month and then be out of season and outgrown by next year.

For Halloween this year I was determined to find my perfect fit and I think I found it.  One of my favorite places for great knit fabric, Sahara Fabrics, released this awesome Spooky Black Cat Cotton Spandex and I knew I had to buy some and make some fun shirts for the kids:

It's got the Halloween vibe, but can still be worn long after the pumpkins get put away and the solid Lime knit I also bought was a perfect match to those green cat eyes. Most importantly, it's a print both my little 7yr old daughter and older 10 and 14yr old sons can wear and enjoy:

Custom print knit fabrics like this are typically more expensive than the stuff you can get at the chain stores or bigger fabric websites, but the quality is hands down better.  I'll admit I used to only buy the cheap stuff, but it was temperamental to sew with and the weight was always super flimsy or too heavy.  Lesson learned? If you want to make nice knit clothing, get the good stuff.  I bought 1.5 yds of this fabric and, by pairing it with some less expensive green solid for my daughter's and some basic black rib knit for my guys, I was able to make 3 shirts.  I even have about 1/4yd leftover I can use to make undies or doll clothes or some other small projects, so it made it pretty economical.  

To make things easy I turned to one of my new favorite shirt patterns, McCalls 7379, which is quick to sew and really versatile for the bigger kids.  I used it to make this Harry Potter print shirt a while back too:

Fun prints look so good with the style and the cut it makes it easy to match up the sides and seams of directional prints like this one.

I drafted my daughter's smaller shirt pattern myself, modifying my previous Raglan Cowl Dress:

I just shortened the length and switched to a neck binding instead of the cowl.  Next time I'll probably cut the binding a little shorter so it stretches more and lies flatter (neckbands that stick up drive me crazy) - I've notice that's needed when not using rib knit, like I did here:



Now we've got some fun shirts that look spooktacular and will still be fun to wear the rest of the cool weather season too:)



I was not compensated for this post.  Although Sahara Fabrics is an advertiser, I purchased this knit fabric myself and was not required to review or promote this fabric or their shop.  The opinions are completely my own, based on my experience. For my complete disclosure policy, click here. 

Bamboo Fabric Love + Selfish Sewing Win

Like many who sew, making stuff for myself tends to be at the bottom of my to-make list.  And when I do get around to sewing for myself, it's 50/50 whether I even like how it turns out.  Happily, I've just had a good reason to make myself something and I actually love the results!

I did some fabric testing for Sahara Fabrics for a new custom-run knit being introduced there: Bamboo Jersey!  I'd sewn with bamboo fabric before, but never seen any that was such a nice weight or a more beautiful print.  My feedback to Dawn, the owner of Sahara Fabrics, was that this fabric is a total win, so definitely add it to the offerings.

Bamboo knit has a softer hand than cotton jersey and a nice four-way stretch.  It's also got a fluid, flattering drape, but isn't slippery like polyester knit.  This fabric is a nice 12 oz weight, so unlike a lot of bamboo fabric I'd used before, it isn't tissue thin - which means lots more use options and a much easier sew.

I still sew my knits on a regular sewing machine using a ball point needle + triple stitch for seams and twin needle for hems and this fabric worked great.  I also use a walking foot when sewing knits, which is key for keeping the fabric from shifting while stitching layers together:    

I especially love the print: Jeweltone Geo.  The print is super versatile and the colors are so flattering (I usually can't wear bright/bold prints).  It's an easy match to just about every solid color which is an added bonus.  I paired my tank with some basic black workout pants, but it would look great with jeans or a maxi skirt too.  The fabric could also be used to make things like a looser top, leggings, a dress or headbands. 

Which brings me to my pattern.  This tank is part of a pattern that also includes a zip front hoodie and yoga style pants: Simplicity 3640.  It's now out-of-print, but one of those rare big 4 patterns that actually looks amazing without massive adjustments.  I've used the hoodie & pants parts loads of times.  If you can find it online - BUY IT!!!

The last time I made the tank was nearly 8 years ago.  It was literally the first fashion item I'd ever sewn for myself and blogged about back here.  Despite being a total newbie, it had turned out great then too.  Somehow I'd forgotten I had in my stash it until now.  Check out this early blogger photo action (complete with shadows and flash):

I'm trying to figure out what to make with the remnant I still have left.  I've got just enough to make a top for my daughter or maybe some bike shorts for myself, unless I can come up with another alternative.  I definitely want to make the most of it.  What would you sew with this bamboo jersey?

I was not financially compensated for this post.  I received bamboo jersey knit fabric from Sahara Fabrics to test sew and was not required to review or promote this fabric or their shop.  The opinions are completely my own, based on my experience. For my complete disclosure policy, click here. 

Sewing Clothing for Older Boys: Where To Find Patterns

When I first started blogging my 2 boys were still just toddling around.  There seemed to be no shortage of cute things to make for them to wear.  Now that they're nearly 11yrs & 14yrs it's become slim pickings. So I thought today I'd do a little spotlight on what is available to sew for bigger boys and where you can find them.

I was inspired to do this post when I started planning out a list of things to make my kiddies for this Fall.  When I looked at my list I had pages of patterns to make for my almost 7yr old daughter.  Tons of choice in my stash.  But I noticed my guys had sized out of a lot of patterns I had been counting on and looking at the pattern books at the store, it was shocking how few things there were for tween & teen boys.  Even the popular "Sewing for Boys" blog round-ups I've seen tend to forget boys over the age of 8 years.  They do get older people!  Part of why I sew clothes for my kids is that it's already tough to find stuff we like that's pre-made and now it's a become a challenge to find sewing patterns!

Here are some big boy patterns I've actually tried myself, 

that turn out nice and aren't a total bear to sew.  Read on!

Big 4 Patterns: There aren't tons of options, but there are a few that are decent.  I recently grabbed McCalls 7379 for .99 cents on sale and I'm pleased with how it's sewn up.  There are a lot of raglan patterns out there, but some just can't seem to get the neckline right, but this one is perfect - even when I used a rib velour for the neck & sleeves:

It goes up to a size 14 and includes pants and a tank top as well as the raglan shirt, so good bang for the buck (or for the change as it ended up!).  

Indie Patterns: There tend to be slightly more picks with indie pattern makers if you search for them.  The Offbeat Oxford Shirt Pattern by New Horizons has a hip style and is a way to use quilting cotton for big boys.  Ironically there are usually more older-boy approved prints available in quilting cotton these days, but clothing patterns to use them are a bit rarer.  This one goes from 12mos up to 14yrs, so it'll last for a good while:

Ottobe Design Pattern Magazines: These tend to provide more options for up to about 11yrs and then a handful for the bigger boys, but a lot of their older kid patterns can be super complicated.  I'm kind of a lazy sewer and don't want to have to spend weeks completing one thing or tearing my hair out because there are too many tricky techniques involved.  A 11-14 yr old boy probably isn't going to appreciate you pulled several all nighters to make him a single item.  One coat I liked at first glance actually had 15 pattern pieces, plus the lining!  Long story short, it didn't get made.  Their patterns also give the bare minimum instructions and zero step illustrations, so keep that in mind.  

Good news though, I have had great success with their Rudolph Pajama Pattern (in issue 6/2009) and that goes up to 170cm or 15yrs.  The way it's pieced also makes it easy to mix those precious knit prints (which can get $$ when you need several yards for a growing boy!) with some less expensive solids. It's also nice change from the basic loose pajama pant, made from flannel or fleece, which is one of the few available-everywhere patterns for boys.

  
Out of Print Patterns: There are some real winners out there, but finding them is a little more work.  Simplicity 5362 is great because it goes right up to adult (covers the whole family!), includes both zip-up hoodie + pants, and works with both wovens and heavy knits/fleece.  I modified the hoodie when my middle guy was a littler smaller to make this giraffe coat, but with a different fabric (and no animal add-ons), this shape still works great for older kids.  I'm planning to make him a new one this season, so stay tuned for that.

Kwik Sew 2745 is another awesome pattern.  This is ideal for fleece or other heavy-weight knits.  It goes up to size 14.  I've used it many times and the v-neck option always looks great.

Drafting Your Own: this is always an option.  I do it a lot for my daughter.  For some basic looks you can use something out of the closet to trace and then add allowances.  I probably should do that more, but since they grow so darn fast, my laziness makes me prefer to just use the next size in a pre-made pattern.  This especially applies for tops, which can look a bit off or homemade-y if you don't get the neckline or shoulder just right. 

Do you have some favorite patterns for the bigger boys?  Why do you think pattern makers seem to neglect the boys?  Share your thoughts & pattern finds below!

Making a Rainbow Raglan Cowl Neck Dress

This year I am all about sewing something good again and again when it comes to making clothing. I don't mean having closets full of the same exact thing, but to build on the designs in my stash to create new clothing.  Tweaking, changing up, making things look fresh without starting from zero.  Drafting one-time use patterns takes a lot of time - as does making muslins with new purchased patterns.  Free time is a premium for me these days, so I want to get to the making and enjoying faster this year. I'm starting with my Rainbow Raglan Cowl Neck Dress.

I used a pattern I already made 2 years ago to draft up a new design lickety split.   In fact, it's actually a double repurpose. Would you believe that this was the item I made the original pattern for?  A Cuddly Pumpkin Costume:

That I tweaked to make this Fluffy Chicken Costume:

And now it's been revamped again to make this little number:

The gorgeous chevron folded rainbow fabric (a custom print from Sahara Fabrics) is actually what inspired the outfit.  The 3-D look & colors on it really make it pop!  It's also  spandex knit, which means it's best for stretchy looks like leggings, swimsuits & workout wear.  Despite being a "slippery" fabric, the spandex knit is not difficult to sew.  It also has a medium weight so it's totally wearable in winter and summer.

Lucky for me, I had some aqua sweatshirt fleece leftover that was a perfect match to my print.  I was trying to come up with a way to really celebrate the amazing colors & the fluid hand of the fabric, without letting the busy-ness of the print take over, and realized a cute neck cowl dress would be perfect!

I started with my original costume pattern pieces.  Ironically they were created from rough tracings of a store-bought raglan dress and then re-shaped and sized a bit bigger.  How I did it is here. They'd been rounded for the plump pumpkin/chicken shape.  I using my design ruler to straighten the side seams. Since this would be a cowl neck (instead of a split opening with button at the back), I made the neck hole a bit higher and smaller too.  I did a bit of trimming and trying on to get it just right.  

I cut out my new front & back design and the original raglan sleeves. I also cut a few inches of the ends of the sleeves so I could add matching cuffs with my spandex knit print.

After stitching the sleeves to the front & back with a triple stitch (more on that stitch here) and a 1/2 inch seam allowance, it was time for the cowl bit.  I measured the neck opening (which was 19 inches) and then cut a piece of the spandex that was 21 inches wide by 17 inches high:

I folded it downward and then, using a ruler angled inward an inch, trimmed each side.  This slant will give the cowl the right slouchy-ness when done.

Then I opened the cowl up, folded it width-wise, and stitched down the side using my trusty triple stitch and a walking foot:

I opened it up again and folded with wrong sides together and then pinned the raw edges along the neck hole of the dress, with the seam at the back center and stitched.  

I topstitched all the way around so the seam allowance would stay down:

Then I stitched the sides together from cuff to hem.  Using the same technique as the cowl (but just a few inches high this time), I added my colorful cuffs:

Last was the kangaroo pocket.  

I fiddled around with trying to make one and couldn't get the size and shape as I envisioned.  Then I realized I had a kid's fleece hoodie pattern with one and used that to get it just right.  

I used paper backed fusible tape on the pocket edges on the wrong side:

Then peeled off the paper, folded them down and ironed to get them to sit perfectly.  This is my secret to make it easier to topstitch with a twin needle and not get any tunneling (aka the annoying bump between the stitch lines).  Then I eyeballed the placement of the pocket to be even with the sleeve cuffs and stitched it on the front of the dress.

I also used my fusible + twin needle to do the dress hem. Ahh, lovely twin needle perfection:

I made the matching pants using the legging pattern from Simplicity 1511 (which is a top, dress & bottoms set). 

My daughter loves the slouchy fun of the cowl:

I love how how I was able to turn a DIY pattern into even more fashions I can make:)

I was not financially compensated for this post.  I received poly spandex knit fabric from Sahara Fabrics to test sew and was not required to review or promote this fabric or their shop.  The opinions are completely my own, based on my experience. For my complete disclosure policy, click here.