The Little Cyclist: Switching Up An Old Pattern For A New Look

Sometimes making a few slight changes can make a pattern more interesting or easier to use.   I had this McCalls 2500 (circa 1986) from a stash of old patterns my mom gave me:

I thought it would make a fun summer outfit for my little miss, since the back is so nice & breezy:

This sweet bicycle print fabric seemed ideal (you may remember it from my Upcycled Hair Accessory Board).  It's a lot cuter in person - the fabric is so pastel it doesn't show up well in the photos + the not-so-hot evening lighting wasn't doing me any favors.



The pattern wasn't complicated, but I wasn't thrilled at the thought of spending a bunch of time fiddling with facing pieces for the neck and curved back.  It seemed easier & more versatile to completely line it and trim it with a contrasting FOE that would add some nice detailing too.  Faster to make AND provides two looks!

Since I made mine fully reversible, I cut out two of each of the top pieces and shaved a bit off the neckline & armholes since I wasn't going to need a seam allowance:

Then after sewing the front & backs of each set together at the shoulders, I pinned the necklines together (with the wrong sides facing):

I encased the armholes in FOE (my old friend, fold over elastic) and did the same from the back around to the other end of the back.  Then I did the same for the entire neckline.  It's a lot easier to it this way than to try to get around the corners, which would make the FOE a bit thick.

And to make it easy to reverse, I used matching plastic snaps:

For making the shorts I followed the standard method, but to give them the cyclist bloomer-look, I finished them with FOE that I pulled taut as I stitched it in place:

This creates a nice which created a nice rounded look and by leaving the hem allowance, it gave them a cute knicker length:

Using a bright teal FOE as the trim really set-off the print & brought out the little teal bike seats:



Now I want to sift through my pattern stash and see what other changes I could make to re-invent some old designs!

I'm also sharing this with my FAVE LINK PARTIES.

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Fold Over Elastic Knit Shorts Without A Pattern

Making knit fabric shorts can be easy.  Really.  A lot of people feel some anxiety when it comes to working with knit fabrics, especially when they don't have a serger, but most of the time I love them.  You just need to know the best ways to work around the challenges, so today's project is all about doing that: Fold Over Elastic trimmed knit shorts.

One of my favorite ways of dealing with knits is using FOE.  Fold Over Elastic is just as it's name describes, a soft, smooth finish elastic that can be used like normal elastic or be folded in half and sewn with like bias tape.  

It can be used for countless options: cloth diapers, underwear, clothing, headbands, straps, binding & more.  Any time you want to finish an edge easily, FOE is a great option. Especially when working with knits, because it has built-in elasticity and sews up very easily.

Headband Tutorial, DIY Undies Tutorial, Tip Top Tank Top Tutorial, DIY Elastic Laces Tutorial

Materials Needed:
- Interlock Knit Fabric (a 1/2yd each worked fine for both my 7yr & 10yr olds)
- 1 1/2-2yds FOE 
- Pair of knit shorts in desired size 
- Sewing Notions: ball point needle, rotary cutter/shears, pins, disappearing marker, paper, pencil
- Optional: Design ruler (more info on this tool here)

Start by grabbing the shorts in the size desired as a general guide.  Carefully fold in half so the curve of the back seam is clear.  Place on paper and trace from waistband to bottom cuff and marking   Fold front ways and repeat on other side of paper.  Stretch the waistband so it is not gathered to determine the width of the waist and draw the line across the top.  A design ruler can really help to make the curves just right or to double check all the measurements against the garment.  Now you have an ideal pattern piece to work from.

Fold fabric, selvages together, and place your pattern on top, parallel to the selvages and cut out:

Assemble the pants as usual: bring the sides of one leg inseam together, with right sides facing, and stitch. Repeat with the other leg. Then stitch together the two legs by turning one right side out and inserting it into the other, matching up front, back and crotch seams pinning and then stitching. 

There are lots of ways to stitch with knits, but if you don't have a serger the best options are either a knit stitch, which looks like this:

or my new favorite, a triple stitch, which looks almost identical to a single stitch, except it makes it so each stitch done over three times.  



This baby really does the job when it comes to knits - my boys have been wearing these shorts at least twice a week all summer and the seams have held up great. And no signs of strain, pulling or puckering usually associated with most knits that aren't serged.  It's meant to providing strength & elasticity, so it's ideal for a knit/elastic combo.  Such an underrated stitch!!  It looks like this on most machines:



To finish the leg hem, fold the elastic in half around the raw edge of the fabric, just as you would with bias tape, and stitch close to the edge of the elastic.  I cut my elastic just a little longer than the leg hole, so I can fold under the raw edge of the FOE and overlap it with the start for a nice finish.

For the waistband, cut a piece of FOE that is the exact length of the wearer's waist.  To make it into a loop, make a french seam.  Fold in half, with right sides out, and stitch 1/4 inch from ends. Then turn wrong sides out and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge:

Flip the waistband right side out again and stitch down the seam:

Mark both the waist of the pants and the FOE waistband in fourths and line up those marking on both pieces, pinning the FOE over the right side of the fabric, so they overlap about 1/2 inch.  

The FOE will need to be stretched while stitching the FOE onto the fabric.  There are two option to easily machine stitch these together.  Both offer plenty of stretch and do not require serging. One is to do a triple stitch 1/4 inch from the lower edge of the FOE and repeat with a second row of stitching 1/8 of an inch away.  

The other option is to use a twin needle.  It saves a little time since you only go around once.  It gives a similar effect on the outside, but the reverse zig-zags the bobbin thread, so it looks like this:



You could trim off the excess fabric of the seam allowance, at this point but I was lazy and didn't bother.  It doesn't affect anything, since knit doesn't fray and being children's pajamas, I don't worry about them not being super upscale on the interior.  Paired with some basic tees, we've got some super comfy loungewear:

For more ideas of ways to use FOE, check out my FOE Projects Pinterest Board:

I'm also sharing this project with my FAVE LINK PARTIES.

Click HERE to check them out!

Specialty Fabric & Notions Gift Certificate Giveaway!

All week long I'm going to be sharing two of my favorite sewing materials: 

PUL Fabric and FOE (Fold Over Elastic)

Ways to use them, tips & tricks for sewing, plus several brand new project tutorials. And to start this week of specialty fabric & notions, I have a fantastic giveaway for a $20 Gift Certificate to Diaper Sewing Supplies:

Diaper Sewing Supplies, is a great shop for cloth diaper making materials, but don't let the name fool you.  They offer LOADS of supplies for those of us who are no longer in the diapering stage too.

I've purchased fantastic PUL prints there that I've used to make snowsuits, snow pants and waterproof mittens:

My Waterproof Snowsuit, Insulated Mittens Tutorial and  DIY Snow Pants Tutorial

These prints also great for wet bags to use at the pool/beach or for making waterproof items for pets. And Diaper Sewing Supplies offers the very durable and food safe Eco-PUL™ in solid colors (I'll be sharing more on this ultra amazing stuff later this week):

They also have a great selection of FOE (Fold Over Elastic) which can be used in countless ways: an amazing alternative to bias tape, an ideal finish for knits, easy waistbands, stretchy straps, headbands and much more.  These are some of their super cute prints, but they have a rainbow of solids too:

You can even get micro fleece & natural fiber fabrics, as well as snaps, velcro and specialty goodies like Lastin (clear elastic) and buttonhole elastic (the stuff that makes kid's pants adjustable).  And they offer a choice of free gift with every purchase over $15. This has given me the chance to try out some sweet extras on my past orders, so I know it's a real added bonus!

Later this week I'll share some new projects and methods of making the most of using PUL Fabric and FOE, but to kick things off...

One lucky Sew Can Do reader will win a 

$20 Gift Certificate to

Diaper Sewing Supplies! 

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Good Luck Everyone and come back tomorrow 
for my latest PUL project tutorial!

Bathing Beauty Sunsuit Tutorial

Summer is fast approaching and my little lady needed some new swimwear for the season. I wanted her to have a combo of bathing suit & rashguard since she's still got delicate toddler skin, but didn't see anything quite right for both top & bottom.  

So when I got my hands on some swimsuit fabric I thought making an old-timey style bathing costume would be just perfect (and work well over a diaper!).  I was picturing those loose-fitting, navy bloomers and tops from the turn of the century.

And I think it totally worked out!  

Now let's get to how to make the Bathing Beauty Sunsuit!

You'll Need:

- 1/2yd of swimsuit fabric (it's 60" wide so a little goes a long way which I love!)

- 1yd 1/4 inch wide elastic

- 3/4yd 1/2 inch wide elastic

- 1 1/2yds 1 inch wide Fold Over Elastic (FOE)

- 1yd of ribbon/decorative trim (optional)

- Pattern for a basic child's t-shirt and shorts

- Sewing Machine & Notions (pins, ruler, marking pen/chalk, twin needle, thread, scissors/rotary cutter)

*To make a boy-style version of this set, just keep the sleeves normal width instead of cap-style and don't apply the 1/4 inch elastic on the sleeves and legs. 

**Sewing Knits Tip: Refer to yesterday's post on sewing knits without a serger for more info on the stitches used here.

Making The Bloomer Shorts - 
Cut short pieces from pattern and lengths of FOE to match the bottom edge.  Also cut two lengths of 1/4 inch elastic that are one inch wider than the wearer's thigh measurement.

Fold the elastic around the edge and stitch together with a twin needle, close to the open edge of the FOE:

On the wrong side of each leg, mark a line 1.5 inches inward from bottom edge.  Take a piece of the 1/4 inch elastic and sew along marking with a wide zig-zag stitch, stretching it taut as it's being sewn.

The finished elastic will give the proper gathered effect.  Repeat on the remaining leg.

With right sides together stitch each leg closed with a knit stitch.  Turn one leg right side out and slip into the other leg, matching up the centers from front to back.  Pin & knit stitch together.  Then trim seam allowance.

Pull bloomers wrong side out, fold waistband 3/4 inch over to wrong side and straight stitch close to raw edge to create the waist casing.  Leave a small gap and insert the 1/2 inch wide elastic (cut to fit waist measurement).  Snake all the way around, sew ends of elastic together and stitch opening closed.

Making The Rashguard-
Cut shirt front & back pieces as the t-shirt pattern specifies.  For a better fit using this type of fabric I recommend cutting the neckband 1 inch wider than the pattern piece.  To create the cap sleeves cut down the center of the sleeve pattern:

Spread the cut of the pattern 3 inches wide and redraw the cuff line with a ruler and cut out sleeves with this new, widened shape.

With right sides together stitch front and back shoulders of shirt together with a knit stitch.  I chose to top stitch with my twin needle to give the shoulders some extra support and to stitch down the seam allowance:

Mark the center top of the sleeve and 3 inches over on either side and baste all the way along:

Sew the FOE to the bottom edge of each sleeve, mark a line 1 inches inward from bottom edge and attach the 1/4 elastic (as shown above with the bloomers):

Create gathers for the cap sleeve by pulling up the bobbin threads of the basting, then pin sleeve to shoulder and stitch together, trimming raw edge.

Take the collar piece and fold widthwise with right sides together.  Stitch along short side with the knit stitch:

Turn right side out and fold collar lengthwise.  Make seam the midpoint of the back and mark the sides and front so collar has four equally distant markings.

Match up markings to shoulder seams and center of front and back and pin.  Stitch into place, stretching collar to fit along neckline.

Trim the excess off the seam allowance.  Careful not to cut the stitching, clip into the raw edge of the collar to create a little extra ease

Pin sides together and sew from cuff to bottom of shirt:

I folded up the bottom hem an inch and stitched in place with my twin needle.  Then I sewed this flower trim directly over the stitching for a little more dainty detail:

Now you're ready to outfit a little Bathing Beauty!

Ours has already seen a lot of use in the kiddie pool and out in the sun. It's worked a treat and she loves wearing it!  I kind of want to make one for me now.  Why shouldn't mom get to be a "bathing beauty" too?

Sharing this with my FAVE LINK PARTIES too-

Click HERE to check them out!