Making the Perfect Summer Pants: Vintage Pattern + Bamboo Fabric

While summer is technically a week away, the hot weather temperatures are already showing up around here and testing the limits of our pre-summer wardrobes.  It's time to sew for the season and I've just found a great combo - bamboo fabric + vintage pattern revamp!

Recently, I'd been a bit frustrated that my little lady had outgrown the go-to pants patterns I had.  I've got loads for knit leggings and baggy pajama bottoms in her size, but none with the perfect rise and cut for everyday wear in wovens.  I'm really particular about fit for pants and wanted to get sewing instead of spending time drafting, tweaking & testing. Sometimes you just want to start making something, right?

Then, serendipitously, while I was sifting through patterns I don't use - to thin things out - and I stumbled on this vintage pattern my mom had given me years back when she was purging her stash.  I'd never noticed that it wasn't just overalls & a jumper dress before.  It had pants too!!  It only includes size 6, which up to now had been too big for her, but is now ideal.  It's weird how back in the day patterns were available in just a single size!  I have seen some available on Etsy in case you want to grab one too.  These classic designs are still in style with the right fabric choices:

For fabric I was going to use up some quilting cotton, but then found this bamboo twill eco fabric my sister had gifted me with over a year ago (FYI I did find it's still available here).  This stuff is SO much nicer than woven cotton.  It has a lightweight and silky hand to it.  Yet, while I loved how soft & lovely it felt, I'd had no idea what to do with it.  Until now.

This fabric is perfect for summer pants.  Its fluttery feel keeps things breezy and cool.  My daughter tried them on and instantly said "Oooo, these feel so soft!!" and started prancing around.

After basic hemming, per the pattern, I added four rows of shirring at the bottom of each leg to give them the harem style that seems to be a popular look right now and help them flutter a bit more.  Added practical bonus, it keeps bugs out when frolicking in the grass.

These were such a quick sew and I love how the fabric and fit are comfy and cool.  Some days covering the legs is needed, but you don't want to bake from trapped heat in jeans or some knits.  I also love that I used up some more of my stash to make a "bought from a catalog" look.  I'm going to try a few with cotton to see how they turn out and despite my stash busting goals, keep my eyes open for some more of this sort of fabric.  This mom's going to need some comfy, airy pants too;)

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Sew Vintage: Making A Modern Looking Dress from McCalls 7409

Oh Summer.  I thought you'd be long and lazy and offer plenty of sewing opportunities.  I made today's item at the very beginning of the season and thought "Hey, I'm on a roll - I'll be making stuff all the time now!".  All I can say now is HA, followed by NOPE.

I've had a few pockets of time here and there, but mainly I've been spending LESS time sewing than the rest of the year.  How this is possible, I just don't know.  I'm always busy, yet still have a million things to do and making stuff keeps falling to the bottom of the list. Sigh.  I know I'm not alone, but it sure feels frustrating when this is supposed to be the quietest time of the year.  Enough complaining though. Looking at this little dress makes me smile & feel hopeful to sew more soon.  I'm just so happy with how cute it turned out.

I had a vintage McCalls 7409 pattern that my mom gave me from her un-sewn pattern stash from 30+ years ago.  That's probably a sign that either moms just don't get much time to sew or the "too busy-yet can't get stuff" done trait is clearly hereditary.  Maybe both.

Anyway, what I really liked was that even though it was from that horrible fashion decade, the '80s, this dress design looks modern and very un-'80s:

The shoulders have this little gather at the front that adds some subtle detail:

And the sleeves are pretty in shape, but not too poofy:

The dress has a back zipper closure, which is what kept me from using the pattern sooner.  Even though I've never really had a zipper sewing disaster, I always kind of make a face when I see a pattern calls for a zipper closure.  One of my irrational sewing hang-ups I suppose.  In reality, it was pretty easy to do:

Which brings me to my next though on how much easier older patterns are to follow.  I can't put my finger on exactly why, but it just seems like vintage patterns are more clearly worded and the techniques aren't made overly complicated by the designer.  Just a few pieces to cut out, a few steps and you have a stylish item sewn up.  The sizing also seems to fit better too.  I usually have to size down and shorten for my little lady, but this was spot on:

The hem is a bit on the short side - (which is common on dresses from the '60-80s), so I made it thinner to add a little extra length and gave it bonus detailing with this trim: 

I like that the dress is full, but the detailing at the top still gives it some shape, so it's not just a big A-line sack:



Added bonus: the fabric & trim were items I'd had in my stash for years so I got to de-hoard a little and make a cute dress.  Now I've just got to make that magic again and get my sewing mojo back on.  Maybe the current heat wave here is a sign I need to hole up in the craft room where it's cool and sew....  

Can Vintage Patterns Stand The Test Of Time?

This was the test with the dress I'm sharing today.  I also want to start by clarifying this post's title.  The question isn't really about the state of decades old tissue paper or if you're deliberately wanting an item to seem retro.  It's more, how well can a pattern from 30+ years ago mix with the styles of today?  

I needed a last minute holiday dress for my 4yr old just days before Christmas.  I knew nothing good would be left in the stores and cheapskate here didn't want to pay for one either.  So I scoured my stash and found this 70s dress pattern: Simplicity 8279.  It was in a box full of old patterns my mom gave me a few years back.  The dress pieces had never even been cut out.  The dress style looked pretty good - a dirndl skirt, princess sleeves and ruffled cuffs.  Nothing crazy, but as I was making it I kept wondering if it would turn out really great or it would look like a time warp.  It's not like there was time to make a back-up!

I figured using a contemporary print would really bring it up to date.  But then I wondered if my color choices were totally crazy.  Grey and brown? For Christmas?  If you'd described it to me first I'd have said "Blech, pick again", but something about this print drew me in. Maybe it was because I was looking for something winter-festive, but could still be worn after Christmas was over.  Sewing time is precious these days so a 1 day wearing for a few hours of my time wasn't gonna cut it.  Or maybe it was the fact the fabric was just $3.99/yd. I'd say both were key factors.  And curiosity about the usefulness of this pattern sealed the deal.

I was also a little worried about the size.  The pattern included only a single 3T (which seems to have been really common back then, as opposed to the four to eight different sizes included in most today).  My daughter usually wears a 4-5T these days, so I made the seam allowances on the sides and connecting the bodice & skirt slightly smaller to give a little wiggle room.  Truthfully I didn't need to bother - it's still roomy enough for her to wear next year too:

The back is a basic zipper.  I usually hate them because I'm super picky about them being perfectly stitched and loathe having to undo any stitches if it's not to my liking, but this one was pretty easy.  And a hook & eye at the top make the collar area less of a hassle too:

The pattern itself was easy to follow.  The wording and steps seemed a lot clearer than similar patterns today.  I did do a couple of shortcuts which I'd recommend on any similar styles if you want to save time.  The first was for finishing the facing inside the dress.  Trying to double fold and press a curve 1/4 inch wide or smaller is a pain in the neck to me and is too easy to goof up.  I just trimmed off 1/4 inch of the edge and finished it with some 1/4 wide double fold bias tape.  Way quicker:

I also don't love having to make a casing and snaking through super skinny elastic for cuffs. So I grabbed some 1/4 wide elastic, cut it 1 inch wider than my daughter's wrist measurement, then stretched & stitched it into place with a zig-zag.  

Again, same effect half the time:

Once it was done I stitched on this velvet & satin ruffled trim to make it a little more dressy and break up the print a little:

The most dated thing about the pattern was the skirt lengths.  The 70s seemed to be about ridiculously short, barely covers your undies, or, trip and fall down the stairs, granny nightgown long and those were the two options it provided.  So I measured the length of another dress in her closet and went with a mid-calf style.  Is it super trendy?  No, but seeing it on, does it look like she has an 8 track collection or was an extra in Herbie Rides Again? I'd say no (although both would probably be hipster cool today).

The answer to my initial "does is withstand time"?  Yes, it's a classic.  When I was in my teens & early twenties my grandma, a seamstress, would always talk about picking "classic" clothing.  At the time I was more interested in trends and couldn't understand why I'd even want something to last more than a season or two. Now that I'm older, wiser, and follow my own style more than everyone else's, I get it. Unfortunately my grandma isn't around to hear me say it, but she was so right.  Well designed lines always look good.  So definitely keep an eye out for timeless patterns collecting dust is someone's attic or at the flea market. They could cost next to nothing or even be free.  You may find a hidden gem you can use for years and years like I did:)

I'm also sharing this project with my FAVE LINK PARTIES.

Click HERE to check them out!

Shabby Apple Dresses: A Candid Review

I love the look of vintage clothing and I've been intrigued by Shabby Apple for quite a while. If you didn't already know, Shabby Apple is an online shop that has stylish dress and separates with a fitted and very vintage flair.

I'd seen giveaways & reviews for their fashions on many blogs and looked longingly at their site, but I always hesitated buying.  I'm super thrifty when it comes to clothes, so I have to feel really confident with quality & fit before I order.  And I'd felt a bit unsure about giving them a try - even though lots of blog reviews raved about the dresses, actual reviews from buyers on the site were mixed.  So when I was asked by Shabby Apple if I'd like to review a dress, I couldn't wait to try them out and report my honest findings.  

I was given a number of dress options to select from and chose the Admiral dress because it's nautical style looked really fun and it had the vintage vibe I love:

The dress came pretty quickly and was nicely packaged.

I was a little nervous when I first put it on.  It fit like a glove and I was worried it would shrink up after a wash, (since it was 100% cotton) but amazingly it didn't.  

I did have to hem it a couple of inches, but I knew this in advance because: 1. I'm ridiculously short (5 feet even) and have to do this with any below the knee dress and 2. the description on the site gave the exact info in the item's length guide. It was easy to know how much I'd have to take it up before I even had it.  And being cotton, it literally took me less than 10 minutes to hem it, so no big deal.

I felt like the dress looked and fit just like I hoped.  It's a little snugger than I usually wear, but not too tight, more body skimming.  Really flattering and with a bit of flair.  I'd say if you're not into form-fitting, to just size up when buying.  Being in a usual "mom uniform" of t-shirts and jeans I kind of forget how a nice dress fits most of the time, but even though it was very fitted, it was comfortable all day long.

The quality was as I'd hoped too.  The belt is actually part of the dress and the pleats are in front & back, which is a nice detail.  I do have to say it's a bit tricky to take off - there's a side zipper under one arm and I need a little help from the Mr. to pull it off over my head, but other than that it's pretty good. 

I also like that the dress is washable - I don't have the time or the extra $ to keep up with dry cleaning (or want extra chemicals next to my skin).  I've washed the dress twice already and just drip drying on a hanger works out great.  No need to go crazy with ironing every single bit which is also a plus for me since I hate ironing clothes.

I thought I'd test drive the dress at the Ragtime event at one of our favorite summertime places, Greenfield Village.  Since it's made up of historical buildings and we'd have early 20th century music, costumes and cars around I thought it would be the perfect place to give it a whirl. 

I got stopped 3 times by random people saying how much they loved my outfit, so I think the dress was a hit.   I paired it with a cloche hat, nautical necklace and some vintage-look mary janes and I felt totally styled up!

Now that I've had first-hand experience, I can honestly say I'd shop with Shabby Apple and look forward to picking out a dress or two in the future.  I've got my eye on the Aquaria: 

And the super cute Root Beer Float:

I also discovered that Shabby Apple has a fabulous blog.  It has lots of tips, vintage style inspiration, ideas for styling their items AND some great crafting tutorials like this suitcase turned picnic basket: 

Definitely worth checking out.   All in all, I was pleased with my experience and will be shopping with Shabby Apple in the future!

I was not financially compensated for this post and received a Shabby Apple dress to review.  The opinions are completely my own, based on my experience.  For my complete disclosure policy, click here. 

My Vintage Look Sweet Beats Handbag

I love unique bags and since I'm also a thrifty gal, this means I usually make them for myself.  The prices of whimsical handbags these days just stuns me.  Today's bag is one I've been carrying around for a while, but I still haven't shown.  This little purse deserves it's moment in the blog sun, so today I'm revealing my Sweet Beats Handbag.

I actually designed the bag around the fabric I used (Musical Instruments from Timeless Treasures).  I really loved the retro vibe & bright colors and thought a vintage-style shape would go perfectly with it.  A sort of a beatnik/old school camera bag feel.

And so it could keep it's curvy shape (and be padded enough to really carry my camera too), I stabilized it with a mid-weight fusible interfacing and a fusible fleece.  I also added some metal feet to it so the bottom would stay nice and it would look cute sitting down.

I wanted the detailing to echo the curved look, so I made the handle, shoulder strap & sides solid (a coordinating Soho Solid called Royal) and also added some curved corner sections around the front & back.  The magnetic snap closure even has a guitar-style shape to complete the look.

Even though the bag isn't really big, the interior is pretty roomy.  I made a little padded pocket for it and there's always lots of space - even when I load it up with stuff.

I don't have a tutorial for it because it's got so many curvy pieces.  It would really require full-on pattern drafting and more than my usual handful of photos to show how to put it together.  I may offer a pattern for it at some point though.  It's become one of my favorite bags.

The best part is even when I'm dressed down, this bag gives me a stylish look.  And believe me, when you've got 3 kids wearing you down all day, you need all the extra style you can get!

I'm also sharing this project with my FAVE LINK PARTIES.

Click HERE to check them out!