Ottobre Design Pattern Hack: Easy Toddler Coat

My now 2yr old needed a versatile little jacket that could stretch from fall to spring.  Something that would keep the chill out in the milder weather, but could also comfortably fit with bulky winter sweaters and fleeces worn underneath this time of year.  So I did what us sewing moms do - I hacked a pattern to make one on the cheap!

I sifted through my pattern & fabric stash so I didn't have to buy anything new.  

For my base design I borrowed from a pattern I've used several times before, Ottobre Design's Funny Dots Coverall.  The last time I made it I used minky lining with an interlock knit outer.  I originally made it for my now almost 4yr old and he & my little lady each wore it for an entire season and it still looks almost new:

For this jacket version I used anti-pill fleece for the lining with a fun print corduroy for the outer fabric.  The fun colors mean it works for fall, winter and spring seasons:

Since my daughter was almost 2 when I made this, I used the largest size (74cm) and added an extra 1/2inch or so to size it up a bit.  The European shape always gives extra growth room too, which is a big plus when sewing for smalls.  

I turned the original "snowsuit" style into a simple jacket by cutting the pattern pieces just below the waist area and skipping the placket front of the coverall - instead just extending the length of the front pieces to match the back.  Then I cut those and the hood pieces out from both fabrics.  Since I didn't have to worry about direction for either one, I was able to easily cut everything from a single yard of fabric for each layer.

Assembly was pretty fast since you just need to stitch the front halves to the back from shoulder to sleeve cuff along the top and from lower sleeve cuff to hem at the sides.  No sleeves to set in!

The trick to easily bringing the lining & outer jackets together is to baste the hood (with both fabrics already stitch together at the front) onto the outer:

And then, with right sides facing, stitch together the outer and the lining all the way around, leaving a gap at the bottom for turning. 

To attach the sleeves, I use this technique of folding over the lining like this and inserting it into the corresponding sleeve opening of the outer fabric and stitching the right sides together.

It looks crazy, but when you turn it right side out from the gap in the bottom, it puts everything perfectly together.

I used plastic snaps to finish the front.  I had some cute heart shaped ones in my stash, which echoed the small hearts in the fabric print and in the perfect matching color too.  These durable snaps make it really easy to get a restless toddler in and out of it.

This little coat has been nice and roomy.  We turned up the cuffs at the beginning of the fall season, but I'm confident it'll comfortable fit her into the beginning of next fall by turning them down.  Not bad for a thrifty stash-bust!

Tutorial Time: A Crafty Little Fox Coat

There is something about Fall that makes animal feature coats extra cute.  Maybe it's so many sweet woodland critters to pick from?  My middle guy needed a new fleece jacket, so I raided my stash and whipped up my fun Crafty Little Fox Coat for him with just a basic pattern, fleece and a little initiative:

Clever like a fox thanks to a fleecy fox coat

This little fox's ears prick up at any sign of danger...

...or food:

He likes peeking around corners to see who's around, so he had to have a fun tail like a real fox:

The tail is even 3-dimensional for some extra realism (and cuddly cuteness):

There are also cozy front pockets to keep hands warm.  I deliberately made the sleeves a little long too, so we could roll up the cuffs for a little color detail (and get some extra wear time as he grows).

A fox coat is so much fun for pretending in and making the everyday a little more magical:

I used this base pattern previously to do my Just A Giraffe Fleece Coat:

It was complete with ears, horns and a swingy tail:

Now onto this season's critter - the Little Fox!

How I made it:

For the coat itself, a basic fleece zip-up hoodie pattern was needed. There are lots out there, but I used Simplicity 5362.  That pattern was ideal because it's easy to sew (and includes kids & adults sizes).  I drafted up some ear pieces that were about 3 inches wide by 4 inches high and cut out two pairs: one each from my red and cream anti-pill fleeces:

I stitched my ears together (right sides facing) with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and then trimmed the seams down with pinking shears to make it easy to turn them right side out:

I stitched together the hood pieces and I clipped a small line on either side of the hood just 1/2 inch smaller than the width of each ear and inserted them in.  I wanted to have a little fold in the front to give the ears a little curved shape when sewn in.  

On the wrong side, I stitched across the opening to close it and sandwich the hood & ear layers together. 

For the tail I freehand drew a bushy & curved fox tail on paper to make a pattern to fit my coat's back panel.  I drew an irregular zig-zag  near the top for the white tip.

I cut out the main tail piece from my red fleece and then cut off the tip section and used it to cut out that portion  from the cream fleece.  I cut that piece just slightly larger than the pattern (maybe an extra 1/8 inch all the way around) so that it would totally cover the red piece when put together.

I top stitched the white tip onto the red tail at the zig-zag.

Then I pinned the tail to the back panel and topstitched them together from one side of the tail, up and back down to the other, leaving the bottom section open.

I gently stuff the tail with polyfill to give it some body and then basted the opening closed:

I followed the pattern directions to put all the pieces together to make the actual coat.  This pattern happens to be unlined, so I made two jackets - the one with the fox features and a second one with cream fleece sleeves for the lining. 

To attach the outer & lining, I did the sleeves first by folding the sleeve cuff of the lining right side out and inserting it into the corresponding sleeve of the outer: 

Then, I pinned them together, matching up the seams and stitched them together:

To put the main parts of the coat outer & lining together, I pinned, then sewed the lining and outer together around the front, hood and bottom edges, leaving a few inch gap at the bottom to turn right side out.  I turned everything right side out, pushed the lining into the outer coat and then slipstitched the opening closed.

I rolled up the sleeves so the creamy lining would show at the cuffs.

Now my little guy is ready to be as clever and warm as a fox this Fall:

Making A Rainbow Sherbet Fluff Coat

Do you ever find a fabric that you can't stop oohing and ahhing over?  I did and it totally motivated me to make today's project: my Rainbow Sherbet Fluff Coat.  

What makes this coat fabulous is the Minky Cuddle Shag fabric.  Sometimes called Shaggy Cuddle, it's unbelievably fluffy and marshmallowy soft.  I bought mine from The Fabric Exchange and got some in solid ivory and this amazing rainbow swirl.  The rainbow ended up on backorder, but I fell in love with it the moment I set eyes on it, so I didn't mind waiting. It totally reminded me of the rainbow sherbet that I loved to eat as a kid and the feel is beyond cuddly.  I literally squealed and clapped my hands when it arrived.  Just thinking about it makes me want to cozy up in it.  I know, I sound like a crazy cat lady...but with fabric.  

This little coat has been great with our crazy spring weather.  One day it's 50°, overcast and windy, the next sunny and 70°.  

The coat is cozy, but not too heavy - the Cuddle Shag is super light and with a silky, fluid hand, unlike traditional faux fur that has a firm backing.   

To make this coat I used the Frozen Meadow pattern (a lined raglan sleeved hooded jacket) from Ottobre Design's Winter 6/2013 issue as my base, but with a few modifications to the design and the assembly.

The general style was good, but I nixed some of the more time-consuming elements like the knit cuffs and hem, knit trim around the opening edges & drawstring for the hood. I also ditched the zipper for an easy elastic loop & button at the neck.  A zipper didn't seem like a practical closure for a toddler's shaggy fur jacket.  I just kept envisioning fur getting caught in it and making a giant tangled mess constantly.  No thanks.



So...I extended the length of the sleeve, front & back pieces to make up for not adding separate cuffs.  I also made the side seams go out on an angle for more of a swing shape.

**Key tip when working with faux fur or cuddle, cut wrong side up and be sure the nap is going in the same direction for all the pieces.**  For my lining I used a bit of yellow bamboo velour I had leftover from a previous project a few years back.  I think it was from Nature's Fabrics.  It's got a nice bit of stretch and has a super soft, low nap - the perfect companion to the fluffy cuddle shag.



I love working with shag cuddle, but it sheds like nobody's business and puts a lot of fluff into the air.  I like to vacuum around the edges of each piece as soon as I cut it and then shake them out over a big trash can or outside to get rid of any loose bits.  I also like to use a respirator (the cheap kind used for painting/sanding) while I do it - inhaling fluff dust particles is not fun.  

With right sides facing, I stitched together the hood halves and then the sleeves to the front & back pieces at the shoulders, so it looked like a big star.  Then sewed the hood to the neckline.  For fabrics like these, I use a walking foot (more on that here) to keep them front shifting or stretching and it works like a charm.

Then I stitched the sides from the sleeve cuff all the way down to the bottom of the jacket.  I repeated this for the lining.

I also trimmed down all the seam allowances with pinking shears - it gets rid of the bulk around the curves:

I basted a small strip of 1/4 inch wide elastic into a small loop at the top of the front for one half of my closure.  

I didn't have any large, shanked buttons that went well with the jacket colors, so I made my own covered button with some scrap fabric from an outfit I'd made for my little lady as a baby.  

I centered it on one of the flowers and voilà - a perfect match to the fabric!

Then I pinned the lining and outer together, with right sides facing, all the way around and stitched with a 3/8 inch seam allowance, leaving a 3 inch gap at the back.  

To attach the lining & outer sleeves, I used this method: fold the sleeve cuff of the lining right side out and insert it into the corresponding sleeve of the outer: 

Then, pin together, matching up the seams:

Stitch in place, working slowly so the fabrics don't get stretched.  

This will look and seem totally illogical.  I'm really visual and the first time I did this I just couldn't picture how this would turn out correctly, but it totally does - I promise!

I pulled the jacket right side out, fed the lining of the sleeves into outers and hand stitched the gap closed.  Then I added my little covered button to the front and done!  

We seriously love this little coat and one of the best bits is that it's totally washable. So it's perfect for my #1 mess maker to wear despite her spill & stain tendencies.  It's already gotten a lot of attention when we go out. We were in Target this weekend and a woman stopped my husband and asked where we'd gotten it.  When he said his wife made it, she asked if he thought I'd make one for her daughter!  Luckily, he said no.  It's a huge compliment to have complete strangers ask if you'll make them stuff, but with my own family & my freelance/sponsored work keeping me busy, I'm mostly retiring from sewing for individual people.



I'm planning to make a luxurious throw with my ivory fabric, but I still have enough rainbow left to make another project too.  I had thought it would be a little too fluffy for an adult version, but I'm starting to think I should throw caution to the wind and just make one for me. Why should the kiddies be the only ones enjoying a fluffy, cuddly coat?

I'm also sharing this project with my FAVE LINK PARTIES.

Click HERE to check them out!